LeFevre gives the South Bay something to celebrate with M.B. Post
- CategoryEat & Drink
Everything feels personal in this impressive new début from Chef David LeFevre, formerly of the Water Grill downtown. Located in what once housed a Manhattan Beach post office, this “social house” dining experience begins with a neat little envelope hand-delivered to your table. Tucked inside is your culinary dispatch for the day, i.e., the menu, complete with Chef David’s charming handwritten scrawls rambling along the margins.
Chef David admitted this is his first baby, and giving birth to a restaurant all your own is a labor unto itself. In this, he’s been ably helped by general manager/wine director Jerry Arbus, whose expertly curated list includes tasty treasures like Saxon-Brown sémillon and Parusso nebbiolo available by the glass. As is currently popular, M.B. Post offers all their wines by the glass in both three-ounce and six-ounce portions, which wisely encourages experimentation without inebriation.
A special note on that bacon, which also gets a starring role in what is too often overlooked in restaurants—the “keep them happy” breadbasket. At M.B. Post, one can feast on warm bacon-cheddar buttermilk biscuits with maple butter that are wildly addictive if not exactly low-fat. You could make a meal of bread and cocktails at the bar and fulfill your caloric intake for the day, I guarantee.
But then you’d miss out on the vegetables, which in LeFevre’s hands are transcendent. Try the asparagus done up Frenchie style with a poached Jidori hen egg and nutty sautéed morels or the charred Brussels sprouts with stinky Emmental cheese, sage and hazelnuts.
LeFevre’s deft touch with fish was evidenced in my salmon, beautifully plated with boldly colored blood oranges and a delicious “slaw” made from celery root, Korean pear and fava beans. And over in the cheeky “Meat Me Later” category, unusual proteins like pork jowl, lamb belly and veal short ribs encourage diners to depart from more traditional cuts of meat.
M.B. Post is an exciting effort from a modest, self-effacing guy whose gruffness (and girth) can’t disguise his delicate touch in the kitchen. Make a reservation—you’ll need it.